This next step involving screws is possibly optional seeing that the hot glue is very strong. If you were to flip the top face over, you would see a completely flat surface that your computer will rest on. Once the 3 parts are all locked together, they will completely make up your top face. You do not need an excessive amount of hot glue to connect these faces, just one continuous loop about a half an inch from the perimeter of the face. This bond will be quite strong and should be done correctly as quickly as possible. Now, apply a good amount of hot glue to the flat face of the support piece and quickly squeeze it right between the two guide lines made previously. At this point, your top face feels like one piece and starts to resemble the top of the computer stand even though it does not have the desired strength to carry all of the weight of the computer. Since you drew the vertical lines beforehand, they will be exactly 8 inches away from each other and ready to accept the underside support piece. Before the hot glue starts to harden, push the two faces together and make sure your two top faces are perfectly next to each other making sure to check that they are flush to each other in all ways. Next, apply a heavy amount of hot glue on one of the sides of the top face that will be facing each other when the two top faces come together. Since my support piece is 8 inches long, measure 4 inches from the inside of two top faces so that there are two lines that the support piece should be between in order to be perfectly centered. Understand that your stand will be locked together in this position when you attach the support piece in the middle. That will make the right angle spaces on the opposite sides of the part which perfectly line up with where the side wall pieces will lock in. Line them up next to each other so that the fillets that are now facing upwards are next to each other. Flip both top faces so that their top face is resting on the table. To get started, we must center the underside support piece under the 2 top faces. The underside support piece will connect the two top faces together and the 2 support side walls will lift the entire thing to its desired height. Now that you understand my mindset behind the designing of the parts of this build, we must start to put the pieces together to make the entire monitor stand.įirst notice that there are 2 side walls, one underside support piece, and 2 top face pieces. The back will be bearing a lot of the weight so it must have a seriously sturdy base. The first reason is that it makes it so that the keyboard can not be pushed back too deep so that you can’t get it back and the 2nd reason is that it helps the overall strength of the stand. The back wall of this stand has 2.5 inches of solid plastic for 2 main reasons. This is done on the left and the right walls but most extremely on the back wall. A key component to my wall design is the fact that it has angled supports to help give the top face more strength by pushing the force to the sides. My stand lifts the screen up by 2.5 inches.
#Computer monitor stand full
Lastly, the most important part was the vertical walls that go around the stand in order to lift the monitor up it’s full height. In order to make those two top face pieces stay together, I designed a very simple underside support piece designed to be big enough to screw several screws into for a solid connection. Although that makes my flat top less deep than my actual base being 7” at its maximum, I realised that it would be good if not better to have my stand stick out slightly on the back for reasons I will explain later. Knowing my maximum length was 8.5” x 6.5” due to the 3d printer constraint, I made my flat top out of two side by side rectangular prisms measuringing 8.2” x 6.2”. In order to fit the monitor on the stand lengthwise and also fit the keyboard underneath, I would have to make the overall build quite big. First I needed to make my base for the monitor to stand on.
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